St. Thomas, the second largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI), is the most visited and the busiest, with rows of duty-free shops lining the waterfront. Tiny St. John retains a classic laid-back Caribbean pace—mostly undeveloped, two-thirds of it is a protected national park, a nature lover’s treasure.
These two very different islands each has its unique attractions and distinctive appeals. You won’t go wrong on either.
Virgin Island Adventures
Float in a Boat
St. Thomas waters are teeming with sea creatures, including rainbow-colored reef fish, tiny curlicue-tailed sea horses and delicate brittle starfish with arms like fine lace. What’s underwater isn’t the only memorable part. The boats that take you to the reefs are an amazing armada of every shape and type, often with freshwater showers and full washroom facilities.
The giant rubber raft–like vessels of Captain Nautica specialize in snorkel trips that spend a full hour at two different sites. This is usually more than enough time to spot stingrays, turtles and other big marine life.
If speed is your need, blast over the waves to the snorkel grounds aboard a 70-foot turbo diesel speedboat.
The Sea Blaster adds a leisurely tour of beautiful Charlotte Amalie harbor as a bonus.
Or power your own boat on a kayak, hike and snorkel tour of St. Thomas’ Mangrove Wildlife Refuge and Marine Sanctuary, a 16-acre uninhabited island. Above the water, you’ll see egrets, pelicans and herons. Below the water, you’ll spot stingrays, puffer fish and conches.
For a different perspective of the reef, go out at twilight, when seemingly hard, lifeless stone comes to life with a host of creatures that don’t venture out during the day. One moment the limestone reef is bare. The next it’s covered by layers of stubby, inch-long, soft coral polyps waving their tiny tentacles. You can watch this amazing sight through the panoramic underwater viewing cabin of the Nautilus sub-see explorer,
or follow your snorkel guide for a closer look.
Take the Plunge
Nondivers can also see the undersea sights in a variety of ways. For starters, you can view the action 90 feet below the surface through the large portholes of the Atlantis submarine.
For something a bit closer to diving, you can wear a special helmet that supplies you with air as you walk along the ocean’s floor at Coral World.
Or try an underwater scooter called a Breathing Observation Bubble,
which lets you glide through the water effortlessly. Either method won’t even get your hair wet.
If you want to become a certified scuba diver, preview the real thing with snuba,
without wearing a heavy air tank. Or take basic scuba lessons, first with pool instruction and then a shallow open-water dive where you’re surrounded by friendly fish that have been hand-fed for a quarter century.
And if you’re already certified, dive to 55 feet at Coki Point, where the visibility averages 75 feet and often extends 100 feet or more. You may encounter dense schools of grunts, snappers and wrasses. The reef is alive with colorful sponges and sea fans too.
Party Down!
Kick back and relax while seeing the sights. Aboard the Kon Tiki party boat, you’ll enjoy unlimited tropical drinks and swaying to a calypso beat while cruising Charlotte Amalie harbor. This was once the playground of rum-swilling pirates, and you’ll see some of their most famous hangouts, including Bluebeard’s and Blackbeard’s castles.
View these same sights on a sunset cruise aboard the five-star Leyland Sneed and enjoy hors d’oeuvres along with rum punch, beer, wine and mixed drinks. Bring a camera to capture the brilliant yellow of a Caribbean sunset.
Take a Duty-Free Spree
Pirates helped turn St. Thomas into a duty-free port, and you’ll still find plenty of “steals” in the hundreds of duty-free shops that line the alleys and streets of Charlotte Amalie. The best buys are usually liquor, jewelry, china, crystal, perfumes, art, cigarettes, clothing and watches. You may find deals on cameras, too, but comparison shop before you buy.
Best deal of all: Anything. U.S. customs lets each family member bring back items worth a total of $1,600 duty-free from this U.S. territory (instead of the normal $800 allowance for things purchased on other Caribbean islands). And you can take back five liters of alcoholic beverages (instead of four) if it’s Cruzan rum or another local product.
Combine your shopping with sightseeing by touring historic Blackbeard’s Hill,
or take in a more extensive island tour to discover all St. Thomas offers.
Follow an Underwater Trail
On St. John, you don’t just watch fish, you get to know all about them on the 225-yard-long self-guided underwater snorkel trail at Trunk Bay. Take those clown-colored parrotfish, for instance. They’re responsible for much of the beautiful sand that forms quarter-mile-long Trunk Bay beach. Parrotfish regularly ingest hard coral rock, then excrete it. But maybe that’s more than you wanted to learn. Visit Trunk Bay aboard the MV Leylon Sneed,
a 115-foot replica of a 1939 Chesapeake Bay oyster boat.
Take a Champagne Cruise
St. John has always attracted the wealthy, including developer Laurance Rockefeller, who donated most of the island to the United States’ National Park Service so it would remain “a thing of joy forever.”
Sample the lifestyles of the rich and famous on a relaxing catamaran cruise from St. Thomas to St. John. After snorkeling or beachcombing, snack on freshly baked breads, cheeses and fruits and sip complimentary champagne. Then take a relaxing nap on your return trip.
Hike St. John
The U.S. Virgin Islands National Park, which makes up about three-fifths of St. John and a small portion of neighboring St. Thomas, has more than 20 miles of well-marked trails winding through tropical forest that contains more than 800 species of plants. One walking path begins next to the park’s Cruz Bay visitor’s center, an easy walk from the St. Thomas ferry dock. With one of the park service maps, it’s almost impossible to get lost. Carry a bottle of water and wear sunblock, sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat. And bring your digital camera for capturing views that you won’t find anywhere else.
Taste the Islands
Almost all restaurants on St. John are small and privately owned. This means it’s easy to find such local specialties as fresh lobster and steamed or fried fish served with johnny cakes. Try the conch chowder or conch fritters—or conch in any form. Other local flavors include beef or salt-fish paté, stuffed roti (an Indian flat bread) and curried meat or seafood, and mango and pineapple tarts. The sweet bread here is a kind of moist fruitcake.
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